Problem Sheds
A
problem shed is a shed that isn't happening like a normal, healthy
shed should. With a snake or any other reptile who is supposed
to shed in one piece, a problem shed would be a patchy shed,
with lots of skin retained on the body. A normal shed would
be done within a period of several hours or less from the time
the shed is initiated. The problem shed may goes on for days
or weeks with little or no progress. With lizards who normally
shed in pieces, a problem shed would be where it is taking too
long, or where skin is retained in problem areas, such as around
toes, spikes, and tails. A problem
shed is a sign of an even greater, underlying problem. New
snakes, especially imports, typically have poor sheds their
first one or two sheds in captivity. Once they are housed
properly, treated for dehydration and parasites, and begin
to psychologically acclimated to captivity, they become healthier.
Usually, by their third shed, they should be shedding properly
- quickly and in one piece.
The same problems may be seen in sick and
stressed lizards, especially imported ones. While their skin
may normally come off in patches, instead of the shed being
completed within the usual 1-3 weeks it would take for a healthy
lizard, it may go on for months, with areas never shedding
at all.
With problem sheds, you need to figure
out why it is happening and correct the problem:
Analyze thier environment, diet, etc.
Check for signs of Illness and Stress when evaluating your
reptile.
Correct the problem (adjust heat, lighting,
photoperiods, microclimates, diet, separate from conspecifics,
etc.).
If the reptile has started, but not properly
completed, a shed, you can help it along:
For small lizards and snakes, set up a
humidity retreat box (check Microclimates articles to find
out how to make one) and introduce the reptile to it.
For larger lizards and snakes, soak them
in a tub of warm water (85-88 F / 29-31 C) for 10-15 minutes,
then begin gently rubbing their skin.
Snakes
The old skin will start to balloon out and become easy to
get off as you rub gently with your fingers and thumbs.
Always work in a head-to-tail direction.
Pay close attention to the eye caps, tail,
and vent. If the eyecaps won't come off, you will have to
take steps to carefully and safely remove them.
Lizards
With lizards, make sure the skin is removed from their toes,
dorsal crest spikes or fans, dewlaps, and tails. If left in
place, it can constrict the tissue, eventually causing an
auto amputation of toes, tails and spikes.
If there is still retained shed in these
problem areas, wrap the damp lizard in a warm damp towel,
then wrap that in a dry towel. Sit down with it for 5 minutes
or so, then expose a small area of the crest, or a foot, and
begin to gently work at the retained skin.
If there are several layers or one very
resistant layer of retained spike or toe shed, rub some mineral
oil into the area while the lizard is still wet from the bath.
This will help lock the moisture from the bath into that area.
Do this for a couple of days (bath followed by the mineral
oil worked into the spikes); this should get enough water
wicked up between the layers of skin to make them very easy
to remove.
If the retained shed is still resistant,
bathe again and, if necessary, do the towel wrap/focused work
again on these areas.
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